Tim Smith Mataro Grenache Shiraz 2011

When the Lord smote eastern Australia with botrytis and other daggy moulds in 2011, a lot of very strange to execrable wine was made. After the first waves of unfortunate crap passed, we’re now seeing 2011 wines emerge from those who usually make the best of their district.  And the wines are, well … sorry to suggest this, but I love it as much: they’re French.  This marvel has all the black and blueberries typical of Tim Smith’s very Australian reds, but they’re set in a junkety/custard swirl of fatty acids that seem only to arise in the presence of even the smallest amounts of botrytis. As is common in France. So you have a lush red wine, bone dry, but with an illusion of sweetness and a layer of delightful puppy fat where Aussie usually provides red dust.  There’s a whisper of something approaching fennel. As far as an experience goes, this is fleshy, sensual wickedness.  Make no mistake. And it’ll show an exponential rise of more of that as it ages. MEMO FRANCE: We could well get a lot more of this weather. 14% alcohol; screw cap; tasted 10-12 JUN 12; 93++ points.  Phillip White.